The kit includes: 37 key semi-weighted keyboard with cable assembly and Adapter card. Mounting board (6 mm HDF plate) with black strip of paper. Plastic bag with 4 pcs M4x16 machine screws and 8 pcs 3.5x20 mm wood screws.
Find a good space to work, with a table and nice lighting.
Static electricity is bad for electronics so avoid (wall to wall) carpets and rubber shoes.
It seems every Pro-One I've opened looks a bit different inside. There were a few factory revisions, but many have also been modded or fixed along the way. My pics will probably not look exactly like yours, but the general design is mostly the same.
Take your time, work slowly! Pro tip: Read through these instructions once before even starting!
TM-2 Kit Contents
1. Attach the black paper
2. Place the keybed on a soft surface
3. Fasten the 8 screws
TM-2 Kit Assembly
The black piece of paper is already taped to the mounting board, just fold it out like in the pic. This will cover the mounting board inside the synth and make everything look black and nice.
Place the Fatar keybed upside down on a soft surface, like a towel. The keys pointing towards you and cable assembly pointing away from you.
Place the Mounting Plate on the keybed. White side down, the black strip of paper towards you.
Fasten the 8 wood screws that hold the keybed. (4 of the screws need to be pushed a little through the black paper.)
Remove the little foam pad and rubber band from the adapter card at the end of the flat ribbon cable.
1. The unsuspecting patient
2. Popping the hood
3. Unscrew the "back screws"
4. Unscrew the "front" screws
5. Dust and signatures
Place the Pro-One on a table. (Of course it should be completely disconnected.)
Remove the 3 short screws in the front and the 2 longer ones on each side.
Carefully pull the plastic enclosure a little towards you, then up. Note that there are cables connecting top and bottom. There is a flat "ribbon" cable going from the keybed to the Pro-One circuit board. Pull the connector from the circuit board. Try to avoid touching the circuit board.
Depending on how long the remaining power cables are, you may have to get some books or something to support the plastic enclosure as you carefully place it behind the metal bottom plate. If it's really short, you may have to pull the power cable as well (going from the transformer to the a connector on the circuit board on serial 1500 and up). Take a quick pic with your phone to document orientation etc.
Lift the Pro-One bottom plate and balance it on its "back" (where the logo is) so you can access the underside. There's usually a AC mains power cord coming out of the back, so use some books to get it off the table a bit, keeping it nice and steady.
There are 4 screws holding the old keybed. First completely unscrew the 2 in the back (close to the middle of the pro-one bottom plate). Then slightly loosen the 2 near the front, which usually also hold the front rubber feet.
Put the bottom plate back down, flat on the table. Slide it slightly over the table's edge (watch those cables if they're still connected!) so you can completely remove those two remaining keybed screws.
Lift out the old keybed and put it away. (If it was the membrane model take it outside and kill it.)
While you're in there, you may wanna vacuum and clean the bottom plate with a damp cloth. (Usually there are signatures and dates there, quite cool!)
2. Adapter card in place
1. TM-2 kit in place
Place the assembled TM-2 kit inside the Pro-One.
There are 4 new M4x20 'machine' screws included. Slide the Pro-One bottom plate over the table's edge and screw the 2 front ones in about half way (don't forget the rubber feet!)
Place the Pro-One bottom plate on its back again to get access to the 2 "back" holes, screw those in about half way too.
Once you have gotten all 4 screws in, tighten all of them securely.
Put the bottom plate back down, flat on the table.
Hold the small TM-2 adapter card by its edges and push it into the socket on the Pro-One mainboard. (It does not go all the way in, there is a small gap.)
Reconnect the power cables if they were pulled. If not - do a final check that none of them came loose during the surgery.
If all looks ok you can put the plastic enclosure back on, but before screwing it on you may wanna fire up the Pro-One and check that everything works. Play all keys and make sure they work.
All good? Then put the 7 screws holding the enclosure and wood sides back.
If you have any questions or if these instructions were unclear or if the language could be improved or anything else - get in touch!